This evening marks Israeli Memorial Day, or Yom HaZikaron.\u00a0 It comes immediately before Israeli Independence Day, Yom HaAtzmaut, more about which tomorrow.\u00a0 The two are essentially two sides of the same holiday, one of solemn remembrance of those who died to make the other possible.<\/p>\n

I’ve only been in Israel once for those days, in 1996.\u00a0 Israel under some bombardments from Katyushas in the north.\u00a0 At that time, they couldn’t reach the Golan, so the hiking tour I had scheduled went on more or less as planned.\u00a0 There would be periodic booms, the warm, friendly sound of outgoing artillery, and more sporadic booms with a little “crack” in them, the far less congenial sound of incoming.<\/p>\n

At one point, the tour stopped at Castle Nimrod, a medieval fort on the Golan overlooking the whole of the Hula Valley.\u00a0 (Formerly the Hula Swamp.)\u00a0 It was a clear day, and we had a great view of Kiryat Shemona, Hezbollah’s prime target.\u00a0 The residents were quite safe, underground or having fled, and I have to admit, the group spent as much time looking at the city for a rocket impact as looking at the castle.\u00a0 I later confessed this to an Israeli friend of mine, who, realizing that I wasn’t actually firing the missiles, smiled and said something like, “Well, if it was going to hit anyway, you may as well see.”<\/p>\n

The afternoon before Yom HaZikaron itself, I took the train down the coast from Haifa to Tel Aviv to stay with an American friend of mine and his girlfriend, now wife.\u00a0 That evening, from their apartment, I heard a concert for the troops at the base in the middle of the city, in particular this song:<\/p>\n

HaMilchama HaAchrona<\/a> (Lyrics<\/a>)<\/p>\n

It’s the consummate Yom HaZikaron song, written just after the 1973 War, for which Israel bore the responsibility of unpreparedness, not of aggression or provocation, a father promising his daughter that this will be the Last War.\u00a0 Of course, it was untrue in 1996, and is even more untrue now, making it all the more powerful as time passes.<\/p>\n

The next day, I took the tourist train from Tel Aviv to Jerusalem.\u00a0 The tradition on Yom HaZikaron is for air raid sirens to sound, and for pretty much all activity to come to a stop.\u00a0 People stop in their tracks on the sidewalks.\u00a0 Cars pull over and the drivers get out and stand.\u00a0 Highway traffic stops.\u00a0 If you’re buying lunch and haven’t gotten your change yet, too bad, you’ll have to wait a minute.\u00a0 In my case, the train stopped, and everyone stood in the aisle.<\/p>\n